Harira (Moroccan Lamb, Chickpea and Lentil Soup)

Method

Harira is the great restorative soup of Morocco, the dish that breaks the fast every evening during Ramadan, and it is built in layers: a spiced meat base, pulses for body, tomato for depth, and a flour thickening at the end that gives the soup its distinctive velvety texture. Season the diced lamb, then brown it in the olive oil in a large pot over a good heat until well coloured on all sides — the browning is where much of the flavour comes from. Add the finely chopped onion and celery and cook until softened.

Stir in the ground ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric and cook for a minute to bloom the spices, then add the tinned tomatoes and let them cook down for a few minutes until they lose their raw edge. Add the rinsed lentils and pour in about a litre and a half of water. Bring to a simmer, then partially cover and cook gently for around forty-five minutes, until the lamb is tender and the lentils are soft. Add the drained chickpeas for the last fifteen minutes to warm through and absorb the moroccan-cuisine|spiced broth.

The thickening, the tadouira, is what makes harira harira. Whisk the plain flour with a cupful of cold water until completely smooth, with no lumps, then pour it slowly into the simmering soup while stirring constantly. Keep stirring as it comes back to a simmer and cook for a further ten minutes; the soup will thicken to a silky, slightly cloudy body that is neither a thin broth nor a stew. Stir often at this stage so the flour does not catch and the soup does not stick to the base of the pot.

Chop the coriander and parsley and stir most of it through at the end, saving a little to scatter over. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper generously — a big pot of pulses needs more seasoning than you expect. Finish each bowl with a squeeze of lemon, which lifts the whole soup, and serve with dates and bread alongside in the traditional way. Harira improves overnight and reheats well, thickening further, so loosen it with a little water if needed.