Porrusalda

Method

Slice the leeks in half lengthwise, then into half-moons. The white and pale green sections are what you want — discard the dark tops or save them for stock. Rinse thoroughly between the layers where grit lodges. Peel the potatoes and cut them into rough 2 cm chunks, keeping the size uneven so some soften first and begin to break down, thickening the broth naturally through starch release.

Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they collapse and turn translucent at the edges. This gentle sweating develops a mild basque-cuisine|Basque sweetness without colour — you're not caramelising. Pour in the stock and bring to a rolling boil, then add the potatoes. Maintain a gentle boil rather than a simmer; the movement helps break down the starch without turning the broth cloudy. Cook for 12–15 minutes. The potatoes should yield immediately to a fork and begin to cloud the liquid slightly.

If using salt cod, soak it in cold water for 24 hours beforehand, changing the water twice — this removes enough salt that the fish flavours rather than dominates. Flake it into bite-sized pieces and add it in the final 3 minutes of cooking, just to warm through. Raw or overcooked salt cod is equally wrong: you want it to turn opaque and just beginning to firm.

Season with salt and black pepper. Taste first — the stock and the cod (if used) already carry salt, so go careful. The broth should coat your mouth lightly, tasting of leek and potato with no sharp edges.

Ladle into bowls and finish each portion with a thread of good olive oil — a peppery Arbequina or a grassy Picual lifts the earthiness. Serve with torn bread to soak the broth. This is peasant cooking from the Basque Country done right: nothing added, nothing removed.