Begun Bhaja (Spiced Fried Aubergine Slices)

Method

Slice the aubergine lengthways into 5mm strips. Salting draws out water through osmosis — this matters because aubergine is 92% water, and excess moisture will steam rather than fry, leaving you with soggy rather than crisp results. Salt the slices generously and leave them flat on a board for 10 minutes. You'll see beads of liquid on the surface. Pat them thoroughly dry with kitchen paper; don't skip this step. Wet aubergine won't take colour.

Combine the turmeric, chilli powder, gram flour and salt in a bowl. This is a dry coating, not a batter — the gram flour acts as both seasoning base and bangladeshi-cuisine traditional thickener. It crisps at the edge and absorbs the mustard oil's sharp, peppery bite without burning. Mix thoroughly so the turmeric distributes evenly; uneven spicing looks careless.

Heat the mustard oil in a large frying pan to 180°C, or until a single aubergine slice dropped in produces an immediate, confident sizzle with small bubbles racing to the surface. Don't heat it smoking-hot — mustard oil's smoke point is lower than groundnut, and burnt oil tastes acrid. Working in batches (crowding the pan drops the temperature and traps steam), dust each slice lightly on both sides with the spice mixture and lay it flat in the oil. Fry for 3–4 minutes on the first side until the underside turns deep golden-brown and the edges curl slightly. Flip and repeat. The aubergine should be translucent when you bite through, tender inside, with darkly caramelised edges. If it's still pale after 4 minutes, your oil isn't hot enough.

Transfer each batch to absorbent paper to cool slightly. While the aubergine is still warm — this matters, as the residual heat helps the nigella seeds adhere — scatter them over the surface. They'll add a subtle bitter-sweet crunch and a faint onion-like aroma that cuts through the richness. Serve warm alongside rice and bangladeshi-cuisine dal. This is not a dish that improves sitting around; eat it straight from the pan.