Zaatar

Ingredients

• 1 cup Zaatar leaves (without the stalks), cleaned and dried
• 1 cup sesame (optionally roasted)
• 1 cup Sumac
• 1 tsp salt
• citric acid salt

Method

Zaatar is a dry-roasting exercise in restraint. The blend's success hinges on toasting the sesame just enough to deepen its flavour without burning it — once it crosses that line, you're left with acrid char that dominates everything else. Heat a wide, heavy-bottomed pan to medium. Add the sesame and stir constantly. You'll smell the shift before you see it: first the raw, almost grassy note gives way to something warmer and nuttier. The moment the seeds turn pale gold — not dark brown — tip them onto a cold plate to stop the cooking. This takes roughly three to four minutes. Patience matters here. Rushing to a deeper colour is the most common mistake.

While the sesame cools, measure out your remaining ingredients. Zaatar leaves must be completely dry or they'll introduce moisture that compromises storage and encourages mould. If yours are damp, dry them further in a low oven at 50°C for ten minutes. The leaves should crumble easily between your fingers. Sumac brings the condiment's signature tartness — its malic acid cuts through rich fats in hummus, yoghurt, or meat — but it's a loud ingredient. Start with three-quarters of the quantity listed and adjust upward. Same principle with citric acid salt: it amplifies the sumac's punch, so taste as you go.

Once the sesame is completely cool, combine everything in a bowl. The cooled seeds won't release oils that would clump the blend. Fold the zaatar leaves in first, breaking them into smaller pieces as you mix. Add the sesame, then the sumac. Grind the salt fine if it isn't already — coarse crystals won't distribute evenly and you'll hit pockets of salt. Toss until the colour is even and flecked throughout. The sumac's deep burgundy should be visible in the mix, not concentrated at the bottom.

Store in an airtight glass jar away from direct light. Properly dried ingredients and sealed storage give you six months before the herbs-and-spices begin to fade. Check the smell when you open it — if it's lost its bright, citric punch, it's past its best. Use it on grilled flatbread with olive oil, scattered over labneh, or rubbed onto lamb before roasting.