Cacio e Pepe

Toast the cracked pepper in a dry pan for 30-60 seconds until fragrant. Add a ladleful of hot pasta water and let it bloom.

Cook the pasta 90 seconds short of al dente in moderately salted water (less than usual — the pecorino is salty).

In a bowl, mix the pecorino with a couple of tablespoons of pasta water to a thick paste. Keep working it; the cheese should ribbon, not clump.

Drain the pasta. Toss into the peppered pan with another ladleful of pasta water; mount over low heat for 60 seconds. Pull off the heat — important — and stir in the pecorino paste. Toss until everything is glossy and the sauce hugs every strand. Add more pasta water if it tightens too far.

Serve immediately. No olive oil, no butter, no garlic.