Tagliatelle al Ragù

Render the pancetta over medium heat until the fat is liquid and the dice is just turning. Add the soffritto (onion, carrot, celery) and sweat for 15 minutes until completely soft and translucent — this is half the work, do not rush it.

Add the beef and pork. Break it up and brown it hard. Don't crowd the pan — work in two batches if needed. You want a dark fond, not a steamed grey lump.

Stir in tomato paste, cook 90 seconds. Deglaze with the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the tomatoes, milk, parmigiano rind, bay. Bring to the gentlest possible simmer.

Cover loosely and cook for 3 hours, stirring every 20 minutes. The milk will look strange at first; it normalises. The ragù is ready when it's the consistency of thick porridge.

Cook the tagliatelle in heavily salted water for 90 seconds. Mount in the ragù with a ladleful of pasta water. Plate; grate parmigiano at the table.