Lenox Chicken

Ingredients

• 1 tbsp granulated gelatine
• 180 ml hot chicken stock
• 180 ml heavy cream
• 350 ml cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
• 0.5 tbsp granulated gelatine
• 2 tbsp cold water
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 tsp salt
• 1.5 tsp sugar
• 1 tsp mustard
• 0.25 tsp pepper
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp vinegar
• 120 ml hot cream
• 1.5 tbsp butter
• 2 egg whites
• 120 ml heavy cream
• 475 ml finely chopped celery

Method

This is a moulded chicken aspic with a sabayon collar — two gelatines working in counterpoint. The cold moulds set firm and clean; the warm sauce sets creamy and yielding. The contrast is deliberate.

Start with the aspic base. Bloom 1 tbsp granulated gelatine in 180 ml hot chicken stock until no granules remain visible, then pass through a fine sieve to remove any flecks. The stock must be hot enough to fully hydrate the protein strands — cold stock leaves you with a grainy set. Let it cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, until it thickens to the point where a spoon leaves a faint trail. This emulsification of gelatin into the liquid is what gives you a clean texture, not rubber. Now whip 180 ml cold heavy cream to stiff peaks — the air you're incorporating is structural — and fold in the diced chicken. Season with salt and pepper, then divide between four individual dariole moulds or a single terrine. Refrigerate until completely firm, at least 4 hours.

For the sauce, bloom 0.5 tbsp gelatine in 2 tbsp cold water, then dissolve it in a bowl set over steaming water until transparent. Whisk 2 egg yolks with salt, sugar, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar until pale, then add 120 ml hot cream. Set the bowl over simmering water and stir constantly — the mixture should reach 65°C and coat the back of a spoon without breaking. This cooks the egg safely without scrambling. Remove from heat, fold in the dissolved gelatine and 1.5 tbsp butter, then allow to cool to body temperature, stirring often. Whip 2 egg whites to stiff peaks and fold in the cooled yolk mixture using a spatula, half at a time, with restraint. Once the sauce feels cool to touch, whip the remaining 120 ml cold heavy cream to stiff peaks and fold in gently. Fold through 475 ml finely chopped celery — no more than three folds, to keep the pieces distinct.

Unmould each aspic by dipping the mould briefly in warm water and inverting onto a cold plate. Spoon the celery sabayon around the base. Serve while the aspic is still chilled and the sauce has a mousse-like set.