Moulded Salmon

Source: The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (1896)

Ingredients

Method

Ingredients

Method

Drain the salmon and break it into bite-sized flakes — avoid powdering it into paste. Set aside. The sauce is a aspic base: whisk the salt, sugar, flour, mustard, and cayenne into a dry blend, then work in the egg yolks and melted butter to form a smooth paste. This emulsion foundation prevents the gelatine from setting in lumps later. Slowly add the milk and vinegar, whisking to combine. The vinegar's acidity will curdle the mixture slightly — this is correct, not a mistake — because you're about to cook it.

Set a bowl over simmering water (not touching the water itself) and pour in the sauce. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, scraping the sides and bottom. The eggs will begin to coagulate after about 4–5 minutes; you'll feel resistance building as the spoon moves through. Stop when the mixture coats the spoon thickly — when you drag your finger across the bowl's side, it should leave a clean track. Don't overcook: scrambled egg flecks in your aspic are permanent.

Remove from heat. Sprinkle the gelatine over cold water and let it sit for 1 minute until the granules absorb moisture and swell. Stir this softened mass into the hot sauce — the residual heat will dissolve it completely. Pass everything through a fine sieve or chinois to remove any egg strands or undissolved gelatine particles. This straining step is essential; unfiltered aspic will be grainy, not silken.

Fold the salmon flakes gently into the cooled but still-liquid sauce — wait until it's about blood temperature or it will scramble the fish protein. Divide between individual moulds (china cups or ring moulds work equally well) and refrigerate uncovered for 3–4 hours until set firmly. The gelatine will gel as moulding progresses, trapping the salmon in a translucent matrix. Turn out onto a cold plate — a brief dip in warm water helps release the mould — and serve chilled with mayonnaise or a sharp vinaigrette.

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