Veal and Oyster Pie

Ingredients

• knuckle of veal
• 1 slice onion
• 1 slice carrot
• 1 bit bay leaf
• 1 sprig parsley
• 12 peppercorns
• 1 blade of mace
• 2 tsp salt
• 225 g lean raw ham
• 4 tbsp flour
• 4 tbsp butter
• 24 bearded oysters

Method

Blanch the veal knuckle bones in cold water for two minutes at a rolling boil, then drain and rinse. This removes blood and scum that would cloud your stock and leave a bitter, fishy undertone. Return the bones to a clean pot with fresh cold water, the onion slice, carrot slice, bay leaf, parsley sprig, peppercorns, mace blade, and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer—not a rolling boil—and cook for 45 minutes before adding the veal meat. Boil the meat for five minutes to set the proteins, then lower the heat and simmer until it yields easily to a fork, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the size of the pieces. Strain the stock, pressing the solids gently to extract gelatin without clouding it. Reduce the stock over medium heat to 450 ml (two cups); you want a light, flavourful stock that will concentrate as the pie finishes cooking.

Meanwhile, cover the raw ham with lukewarm water in a separate pan and poach gently for one hour at a bare simmer. The ham will soften and season the surrounding liquid. Drain and cool slightly before cutting into 1 cm cubes.

Build a brown roux by melting butter over medium heat, adding flour, and stirring constantly until the raw flour flavour burns off and the paste darkens to a chestnut colour—five to seven minutes. This braising base will thicken the sauce and add nuttiness. Pour the reduced veal stock slowly into the roux, whisking to avoid lumps. Add the cubed veal and ham, bring to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes to meld the flavours and tighten the sauce. Taste and season with salt and mace if needed.

Beard the oysters (remove the fibrous hinge) just before finishing the pie. Shuck them into a bowl, reserving their liquor. Stir the oysters and their liquor into the hot sauce—the residual heat will set the meat without toughening it, taking just two to three minutes. The oysters' brine will brighten the earthy veal and ham. Transfer the filling to a pie dish.

Top with puff pastry and bake at 200°C until golden, or lay pre-baked puff paste on the surface just before serving to keep it crisp. The contrast between soft, savoury filling and crackle is the point.