Source: The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (1896)
A souffle is a collapsed soufflé without proper technique. The control is the emulsification — you build an aerated base and fold in whipped whites at the last possible moment. Timing matters, but texture matters more.
Make a beurre manié by melting the butter over medium heat, then whisk in the flour to form a smooth paste. Cook for one minute, stirring constantly, to remove the raw flour taste — this is your roux. Pour in the cream and vegetable cooking water in a thin stream, whisking hard to prevent lumps. The starch granules will absorb the liquid and thicken the base into a loose béchamel. Once it coats the back of a spoon without breaking, fold in the sieved vegetables. The purée should be fine enough to pass through the sieve without resistance; coarse pieces will puncture your egg whites later. Set the base aside to cool slightly — it should be warm but not hot when you add the yolks.
Beat the egg yolks with a pinch of salt until pale and thick, about two minutes of vigorous whisking. This incorporates air and increases volume. Whisk the yolks into the cooled base thoroughly — they won't cook at this stage, so you need full incorporation. The mixture will look almost curdled; this is correct.
Whip the egg whites with a clean bowl and whisk (any fat ruins them) to stiff peaks — the peaks should hold their shape without weeping. Working quickly, fold a third of the whites into the base using a rubber spatula. Use a sweeping motion from the bottom of the bowl, rotating as you fold. This loosens the base. Fold in the remaining whites in two additions, being gentler with each fold to preserve the air you've whipped in. Season only now — salt breaks down the foam structure if added too early.
Transfer to a buttered soufflé dish, filling it two-thirds full. Bake at 190°C for 25–30 minutes. The top should wobble slightly at the centre when you nudge the dish — the residual heat will set it to a creamy centre. Overbaking yields a dry, collapsed cake. Serve at the table immediately; a souffle waits for no one.
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