Greek Easter Cookies

Ingredients

• 1 lb unsalted butter
• 3 cups sugar
• 10 eggs
• 6 tsps baking powder
• 2 tsps baker's ammonium
• 1 pinch baking soda
• 2 tsp powder vanilla
• 3 orange zest
• 2 lemon zest
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1 cup warmed milk
• 1 egg yolk
• 9 cups flour

Method

Butter-creaming is non-negotiable here — you're building structure through aeration. Cream the softened butter and caster sugar together until the mixture is pale, voluminous, and takes on a mousse-like texture. This takes 4–5 minutes with an electric mixer; the paddle should leave a trail when lifted. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well between each addition so the emulsion stays stable. If the mixture curdles or looks separated, add a tablespoon of flour to bind it back together.

Dissolve the baker's ammonium in the warmed milk — this is a chemical leavening agent that produces ammonia gas, which evaporates during baking and gives these cookies their characteristic light, crisp crumb. Once dissolved, fold it into the creamed mixture. Begin adding the flour in thirds, alternating with the orange juice, whilst also incorporating the baking powder, baking soda, vanilla, and both citrus zests. Mix until just combined; overmixing develops gluten, which tightens the dough and makes the finished cookies tough. The dough should come together into a shaggy mass that you can knead by hand if your mixer strains.

Knead for 2–3 minutes on a clean bench until smooth and slightly tacky but not sticky. It should hold a shape without cracking at the edges. Rest, covered, at room temperature for 30 minutes — this allows the flour to fully hydrate and gluten to relax, so the dough becomes easier to shape without springing back. If it's too sticky to handle, oil your hands rather than adding flour, which would throw off the hydration balance.

Divide and roll into ½ cm thick strips about 7–8 cm long. Twist pairs together, or shape into knots and rings — the traditional forms are part of the greek-cuisine|Greek Easter tradition. Brush generously with beaten egg yolk, which creates the golden, glossy egg-wash finish. Bake at 175°C for 18–22 minutes on the middle shelf. They should turn deep gold at the edges but remain pale and tender in the centre — they'll continue to firm up as they cool. Test one: it should snap cleanly when broken, not bend. Turn out onto a wire rack whilst still warm.