Asparagus Soup

Ingredients

• 5 lb lean beef
• 3 slices bacon
• 300 ml pale ale
• a few white beet leaves
• spinach
• 1 cabbage lettuce
• a little mint
• a little sorrel
• a little marjoram
• 600 ml asparagus tops
• 1 French roll crust
• 1.2 litre water
• to taste pepper
• to taste salt

Method

The foundation is a beef stock built through braising: the flour-dusted meat and bacon sweat together in a covered pan over moderate heat, releasing collagen and gelatin into the base of the pot. This isn't a brown stock — you're not seeking colour or crust here — you're drawing moisture from the meat and rendering the fat from the bacon. Stir every few minutes and expect the bottom of the pan to catch slightly; this is fine. After 15–20 minutes, when the pan has accumulated about 100 ml of concentrated liquid, add the water and pale ale. The beer's acidity denatures proteins and adds a subtle bitterness that rounds the earthiness of the vegetables to come. Season now with pepper and salt — don't hold back — then lower the heat so the surface barely shivers. Two hours of gentle simmering will turn the beef collarbone-soft and the stock a pale, clean amber. Skim the greasy foam that rises in the first 30 minutes.

Strain the entire pot through muslin or a fine sieve. Let the solids drain but don't press them — pressing breaks down fibres and clouds the broth. Leave it to settle for 5 minutes, then pour off the clear liquor, leaving the sediment behind. Wipe any fat from the surface with a folded piece of kitchen paper held just above the liquid.

Pound the white beet leaves, spinach, cabbage lettuce, mint, sorrel, and marjoram in a mortar until you have a coarse green paste. This bruising breaks down cell walls and releases chlorophyll and volatile oils that will season the soup. Return the stock to the heat and bring to a boil, then add the herb paste and stir through. The colour will deepen. Add the asparagus tops — cut them into 1 cm pieces — and cook for 8–10 minutes until they lose their raw bite but still hold shape. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Place the French roll crust (the outer crust only, hollowed slightly) into a serving dish and ladle the hot soup over it. The bread will absorb flavour and soften but shouldn't collapse into mush. Serve at once.