Boiled Eels

Ingredients

• 4 small eels
• water
• 1 large bunch parsley

Method

Boiling eel whole preserves the delicate flesh and allows the parsley liquor to infuse flavour directly into the fish. This is a poaching technique despite its name — the water temperature matters more than aggressive bubbling. Bring water to a simmer (small irregular bubbles, not a rolling boil) and maintain it there throughout. Aggressive heat will tear the skin and dry the meat.

Clean the eels by rinsing them under cold water, then place them in a heavy-bottomed pot with the parsley bunch, roughly chopped to release its oils. Pour cold water over until the eels are just submerged — roughly 800ml to 1 litre depending on their size. Set the pot on medium heat and bring slowly to a simmer. Once small bubbles break the surface consistently, reduce the heat to maintain that gentle simmer. The eels are done when the flesh yields easily to the point of a knife along the spine, without resistance — typically 25–30 minutes depending on thickness. You're looking for the meat to separate cleanly from the bone, not collapse into mush.

The cooking liquid becomes a parsley-infused stock enriched with gelatin leached from the eel's skin and bones. Reserve 250ml of this cooking liquor; strain it through a fine sieve and discard the parsley solids. Make a beurre manié by kneading together 25g softened butter with 15g plain flour until smooth, then whisk this into the warm cooking liquor off the heat, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens to a loose, silky consistency — this butter emulsion coats the back of a spoon lightly. Season with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the earthy, mineral sweetness of the eel. The acid cuts through the richness and prevents the sauce cloying.

Transfer the cooked eels carefully to a warm serving dish, pour the parsley and butter sauce over them, and serve immediately. If serving in the traditional way, keep some of the eels and their sauce warm in a tureen on the side of the table for guests to help themselves. The skin should have a pale, translucent appearance and peel cleanly with a fork; if it's greying or the flesh is falling apart, you've oversimmered.