Source: Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861)
Cod sounds — the swim bladders — are dense and need tenderising before they can hold a forcemeat without splitting. Poach them in equal parts milk and water for 30 minutes. The milk's casein proteins and fat coat the sound's gelatinous structure, which prevents it from tightening too aggressively as it cooks. The liquid should barely tremble; a rolling boil will shred them. Once opaque and yielding to light pressure, drain and cool on a clean cloth until handleable.
While the sounds cool, make the stuffing. Pound the chopped oysters and anchovies together until they begin to release their liquor — this is your binder. Fold in the breadcrumbs (roughly 115 grams), then work in the softened butter, beaten eggs, and seasonings: salt, white pepper, a small grating of nutmeg, and a whisper of mace. The mixture should hold together without being pasty; if it seems loose, add a touch more crumb. This seafood forcemeat relies on the salt and the oyster juice's proteins to bind during cooking.
Once cool enough to handle, lay each sound flat and spread a layer of forcemeat along its length — about 5 millimetres thick. Roll it tightly and secure the seam with a skewer or by tying with kitchen string. Brush the outside lightly with melted lard and dust generously with flour. This coating creates a protective barrier and colours golden as it cooks.
Set the rolls in a covered Dutch oven or close-lidded earthenware pot and place before a moderate fire (or in a 160°C oven). Cook gently for 45 minutes to an hour, turning once halfway through. The flour coating should be pale biscuit, not dark — you're braising here, not roasting hard. Pierce the thickest roll with a fine skewer; it should meet no resistance and the juices should run clear and taste of brine and butter, not raw egg. Serve hot, still in their coating.
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