Source: Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861)
Skin and bone the eel in one piece — you want a flat fillet with no fragments left behind. Split it lengthways down the centre to give you two long, even pieces. This creates the surface area you need for the spice and herbs to adhere and penetrate during cooking.
Pound the mace, cloves, and allspice together to a fine dust — not coarse granules. Coarse spice won't distribute evenly and will grit between your teeth. Mince the sage and herb bunch to confetti-size pieces; large chunks will fall away from the eel as it rolls. Scatter the spice and herb mixture across the flesh side of each eel fillet, then roll tightly from tail to head and bind with cloth or broad tape. The wrapping does two things: it holds the eel's shape as it firms during cooking, and it prevents the aromatic mix from leaching into the broth and muddying the flavour. You want those spices locked into the meat itself.
Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil and add a splash of vinegar — the acid sets the protein structure and firms the flesh, preventing it from turning mushy. Lower the wrapped eel into the water. Maintain a gentle boil for 90 minutes to 2 hours depending on thickness. You're looking for the flesh to yield when pressed but still hold its shape; an overcooked eel becomes gelatinous and falls apart. Test by piercing near the thickest point — the flesh should offer slight resistance, then separate cleanly.
Remove the eel and unwrap it while warm. If serving immediately, slice into 2 cm rounds and serve warm with some of the cooking liquor as a light broth. For keeping, store the eel in the cooking liquor and add extra vinegar — this shifts the dish into pickling territory, where the acid prevents spoilage and the eel develops a more assertive, funky depth over days. The collared eel will keep for up to two weeks submerged and cool.
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