Curried Cod

Ingredients

• 2 slices cod
• 3 oz butter
• 1 onion
• 200 ml white stock
• for thickening butter and flour
• 1 tsp curry powder
• 120 ml cream
• to taste salt
• to taste cayenne pepper

Method

Cut the cod into bite-sized pieces without flaking — you want distinct chunks that hold their shape during the braise, not shreds that dissolve into the sauce. Slice the onion into thin half-moons; they'll soften and almost disappear into the curry cream, thickening it naturally as they break down.

Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over a moderate flame until it froths. Once the foam subsides and you see the first sign of colour — pale gold, not brown — add the cod and onion together. This frying stage isn't about browning the fish aggressively; you're looking for gentle colour on the surface of the cod (two to three minutes per side) and translucence beginning at the edges of the onion. Work in batches if the pan is crowded; overcrowding drops the temperature and steams rather than fries. Transfer everything to a stewpan once the cod shows that initial colour change.

Pour the white stock into the stewpan and bring to a simmer. Make a beurre manié — equal parts softened butter and plain flour worked together into a paste — and whisk it in gradually. This braising liquid will thicken as the starch gelatinises and the butter emulsifies; stir occasionally and simmer for eight minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. The cod will continue to cook gently here, becoming opaque and firm.

Stir the curry powder thoroughly into the cold cream until no specks remain — dry seasoning|spices won't distribute evenly in hot liquid and leave bitter pockets. Pour the curry cream into the pan in a steady stream while stirring. Bring to a single boil, no more; cream breaks if you overheat it, and the cod will toughen with extended cooking. Taste and adjust salt and cayenne pepper; the heat should build in the finish, not announce itself. Serve directly from the pan or decant to a warm dish.