Fried Anchovies

Ingredients

• 1 tbsp oil
• 120 ml white wine
• flour
• 12 anchovies

Method

Make a thick batter from the wine, oil, and flour — whisk them together until smooth, then add flour gradually until it coats the back of a spoon and falls away cleanly. This emulsion of batter-coating creates a crisp shell by trapping moisture against the fish whilst the exterior dries out and browns. The wine adds acidity to tenderise the delicate flesh and cuts through the richness of the fat.

Gut the anchovies by splitting them lengthways from head to tail — a sharp knife splits the backbone cleanly without ragged edges. Rinse them under cold water and pat thoroughly dry with a tea towel. Moisture is the enemy of crispness; any dampness on the surface will steam rather than fry, leaving the coating soggy. Leave them on a plate for a few minutes to air-dry further.

Heat your oil to 170°C — use a thermometer, not guesswork. Dip each anchovy fully in the batter so it's enclosed entirely, then lower it into the oil. Fry in batches so the temperature doesn't collapse. The maillard-reaction happens quickly at this heat; watch for the batter to turn deep gold within two to three minutes. The anchovy will firm up slightly and release easily from the base of the pan when it's ready to turn. Turn each one once and cook the second side for another ninety seconds until both sides match — a darker amber than the first flip.

Lift them onto absorbent paper and season immediately with fleur de sel while the coating is still hot and permeable. The salt adheres properly only then; add it after they cool and it slides off. Serve within minutes whilst the batter still carries its crackle. This is a dish of textural contrast — brittle shell against soft, briny fish — and both elements collapse if it sits.