John Dory

Ingredients

• John Dory fish
• 60 g per 4.5 litres water salt

Method

Poaching is the method here — gentle, sustained heat that keeps the fish's flesh delicate and the stock infused with its flavour. Start with a cold-water boiling bath: lay your scaled and gutted John Dory in a fish kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt at 60 g per 4.5 litres. The slow temperature climb from cold matters. It allows the proteins to denature gradually and evenly, preventing the shock that causes the flesh to seize and split. Bring the water up slowly — a process that should take ten minutes or so — until you reach a bare simmer, where small bubbles surface occasionally around the rim.

The timing depends on cooking-by-size: a John Dory of 500 g poaches in 12–15 minutes; push toward 20–25 minutes for a fish approaching 1 kg. The flesh is ready when a fork flakes the thickest part cleanly at the shoulder, just behind the head, without resistance. Do not overcook — a minute beyond this point and the flesh turns chalky and splits from the bone. The court-bouillon (the cooking liquid, though here it's simply salted water) won't absorb much flavour; it's the residual heat that matters.

Lift the fish carefully using a slotted spatula — the skin is fragile — and transfer to a hot serving platter lined with a folded cloth napkin (which catches steam and prevents slipping). Pat the surface lightly with another warm cloth if the skin has absorbed too much water.

Finish with raw garnishing: scatter parsley (flat-leaf, finely chopped) over the body and pile lemon wedges alongside. The acidity cuts through the richness of the flesh and any sauce you choose. A simple melted butter poured over just before service is sufficient; if you prefer more assertive sauces, serve them warm on the side — lobster or anchovy sauce for those who want umami depth, shrimp butter if you're after sweetness. The John Dory's delicate, slightly sweet flavour is best not buried.