Source: Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861)
The backbone of mullagatawny is a long, patient simmering that coaxes the meat into submission and marries the spices into the stock. Start by lining a heavy-bottomed stewpan with the bacon slices — they'll render their fat and season the cooking medium as the soup builds. Cut your fowl or rabbit into small joints, roughly 5–7 cm pieces; this surface area matters because you're about to brown the meat, which develops the savoury depth that separates proper mullagatawny from thin broth.
Heat the bacon fat until it's smoking slightly, then work the meat in batches. Don't crowd the pan. You want hard, deep browning on each piece — a rich mahogany colour that signals browning|Maillard reaction has started. This takes 4–5 minutes per batch. In a separate pan, slice your onions thickly and fry them hard in butter or additional fat until they turn deep gold and the edges char slightly; this caramelisation is non-negotiable because raw onion will thin the flavour you're building. Stir in the curry powder directly into the hot onions and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the rawness disappears and the mixture smells open and warm, not harsh.
Return the browned meat to the stewpan, scatter the caramelised onions and minced garlic over it, then pour in the stock. Bring to a gentle boil, then drop the heat so the liquid barely trembles — you're looking for a single bubble breaking the surface every few seconds. Simmer for 90 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the bird's age; old fowl can need the full stretch. Skim the surface regularly, especially in the first 30 minutes, to remove the grey-white albumin that rises. While the soup works, pound the almonds with a splash of cold stock until you have a fine paste; the almonds thicken the soup and add a subtle richness that cuts the heat.
About 30 minutes before you're ready to serve, mix the curry powder with a ladle of hot stock to form a smooth paste — this blooming step prevents lumps and ensures the spice integrates cleanly. Stir it into the pot slowly, tasting as you go. Add the almond paste the same way. Finish with lemon pickle or mango juice to taste; the acid is essential, sharpening the spices and preventing the soup from turning dull and one-note. Serve in deep bowls with fluffy boiled rice on the side, or stir the rice directly into the soup.
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