Portable Soup

Ingredients

• 2 knuckles of veal
• 3 shins of beef
• 1 large faggot of herbs
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 heads of celery
• 3 onions
• 3 carrots
• 2 blades of mace
• 6 cloves
• 1 tsp salt
• sufficient to cover water

Method

This is a stock-based preserving technique that relies on aggressive reduction to concentrate gelatin into a shelf-stable cake. The principle is simple: boil the bones and meat long enough to dissolve all the collagen into the liquid, then boil that liquid down until it sets solid at room temperature — essentially making an edible glue that reconstitutes into broth.

Start by blanching the veal knuckles and beef shins in unsalted water for two minutes at a rolling boil. Drain, rinse under cold water, and scrape away any grey scum clinging to the surface. This step removes blood proteins that would otherwise cloud your final reduction and impart a stale, meaty tang. Place the cleaned bones in a large pot with the celery heads, onions, and carrots split lengthways (don't bother peeling), the herb bundle, bay leaves, mace blades, cloves, and salt. Cover generously with cold water — aim for at least 10cm above the solids — and bring to a rolling boil. Maintain that boil for 12 to 14 hours. The violent agitation forces the collagen out of the bones and into the liquid; a gentle simmer won't achieve the same gelatinisation. Strain through muslin, discard the solids, and cool the liquid overnight in a cool larder or refrigerator. The fat will solidify on the surface; remove it entirely with a knife.

Pour the defatted stock into a wide, shallow pan and reduce over steady, medium-high heat for 6 to 8 hours, stirring every 20 minutes to prevent scorching on the bottom. The liquid should reduce to roughly one-tenth its original volume and darken to an amber-brown. You'll know it's ready when a spoonful dropped onto a cold plate sets to a rubbery, slightly sticky cake within a minute — this is pure bone-broth gelatin concentrate. Pour the hot reduction into wide, shallow dishes and leave to cool and set overnight. Once cold and firm, turn the cakes out onto clean linen cloth and leave them in a dry place for 3 to 4 days to lose surface moisture.

Store in sealed tins in a cool, dry cupboard — the lack of air prevents mould and rancidity. To serve, drop a piece the size of a walnut into a pint of simmering water and stir for 2 minutes until dissolved. The broth will be concentrated and richly savoury. Add vermicelli or small pasta if you want body, though the soup is complete as is.