Ratatouille

Provençal vegetable stew. The classic argument is whether to cook the vegetables together or separately. Separately gives better colour and texture — each vegetable has different moisture content and cooks at a different rate. Together is easier. Both are correct; the separately-cooked version is better.

Separately (recommended)

Cut all the vegetables into 2cm pieces. Heat olive oil in a wide pan over high heat. Cook each vegetable separately in batches until lightly coloured and just tender — aubergine takes longest (10 minutes), courgette least (5 minutes), peppers somewhere in between. Set each aside.

In the same pan, soften the onion for 10 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme; cook one minute. Add the tomatoes (peeled and roughly chopped or tinned). Simmer for 15 minutes until the sauce thickens.

Return all the vegetables to the pan. Stir gently. Cook together for 10 minutes to meld. Season generously. Remove the thyme stems. Tear the basil over the top.

Together

Sauté the onion and garlic. Add all the vegetables at once with the tomatoes. Season, cover, and cook on low heat for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Serve warm, at room temperature, or the next day — ratatouille improves with time.

Method

Cook the vegetables separately, then braise them together. The vegetables have wildly different moisture contents and cell structures — aubergine absorbs liquid like a sponge whilst courgette sheds it. A single pan on low heat treats them all the same and you'll end up with mushy aubergine and courgette still holding its shape. The separately-cooked version preserves each vegetable's character whilst building a unified sauce underneath. This is the correct approach.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan over medium-high heat. Dice the aubergine into 2cm pieces, salt generously, and sauté in batches without crowding — 8–10 minutes per batch until the flesh turns translucent at the edges and colours on the cut surfaces. The salt draws out water initially, then the aubergine begins to soften and take on colour; stop before it collapses into a fritter. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the courgettes (5–7 minutes) and peppers (6–8 minutes), using the remaining oil as needed. Each vegetable should have a light golden crust but still offer resistance to the bite.

In the same pan, warm 1 tablespoon oil and soften the diced onion for 8 minutes until translucent. Add the crushed garlic and thyme sprigs; cook for 90 seconds until the garlic softens and the thyme releases its volatiles into the oil. Add the tomatoes (peeled, deseeded, and roughly chopped — or tin tomatoes if fresh are meagre) and a three-finger pinch of salt. Simmer uncovered for 12–15 minutes, breaking the tomatoes down with a wooden spoon. The sauce should reduce slightly and the tomato flavour should concentrate; if it's watery and pale, you're not there yet.

Return the cooked vegetables to the pan and fold gently — avoid aggressive stirring, which bruises the flesh. Lay the thyme sprigs on top, cover, and braise at a bare simmer for 8–10 minutes. The vegetables will soften further and the flavours meld via braising, whilst the tomato sauce acts as the binding medium. Season aggressively with salt and pepper. Discard the thyme stems. Tear fresh basil over the top just before serving.

Ratatouille is best served at room temperature the next day or two days later, when the vegetable-cookery has fully absorbed the tomato and oil. The flavour deepens and the structure sets.