Braised Leg of Mutton

Source: The White House Cook Book (1887)

Ingredients

Method

Ingredients

Method

Set your oven to 160°C. The leg of mutton will braise low and slow, but only if you establish a proper braising base first. Line a heavy cast-iron pot or enamelled casserole with thin bacon slices — this isn't garnish, it's the fat layer that prevents the meat sticking and adds flavour to the braising liquid. Layer the carrots (halved lengthways), onions (quartered), and a generous bunch of savoury herbs (thyme, bay, parsley) directly on top. The vegetables will break down into the liquid and build umami depth.

Seat the leg on this bed, skin-side up. Lay more bacon slices across the top and pour 300 ml of water around it — not over it; you want the top to colour slightly as the oven heat reaches it. Cover the pot tightly with foil before the lid goes on. This double seal traps steam and keeps the braise gentle. Put it in the oven for three and a half to four hours. The meat will surrender when a skewer meets almost no resistance at the thickest point, near the hip bone.

About halfway through, baste the leg twice with the braising liquid pooling below. This is not optional slow-cooking theatre — basting redistributes fat and keeps the exposed surface from drying. Season with salt and pepper once the meat begins yielding (around the two-hour mark), not before; early salt draws moisture out and hardens the surface.

When the leg is completely tender, lift it onto a warm plate and tent loosely. Strain the braising liquid into a saucepan, discarding the spent vegetables and herbs. Skim most of the surface fat, then whisk in the flour to a paste and bring to a simmer. Cook for five minutes, stirring constantly, until the gravy turns a deep mahogany from the flour's colour and the flour taste is gone. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Whilst the meat braises, cut potatoes into egg shapes, blanch them for five minutes until just tender, then fry them in butter until golden brown on all sides. Slice or carve the leg, pour some gravy over the meat, and serve the potatoes scattered around it. Pass the remaining gravy in a tureen.

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