Source: The White House Cook Book (1887)
Cut salmon into slices 2.5–4 cm thick. Pat them dry thoroughly with cloth — moisture on the surface will steam rather than sear, preventing the caramelisation that defines proper broiling. You're after a golden crust against translucent, just-set flesh.
Season aggressively with salt and pepper. The salt penetrates the dense protein quickly and seasons throughout, not just the surface. Dredge in sifted flour — this creates the light, crisp exterior that traps the fish's natural moisture whilst it cooks. Work on a plate, not over the pan, to avoid flour falling into fat.
For the open-gridiron method: heat a cast iron or steel gridiron directly over flame until it's too hot to hold your hand 8 cm above for more than three seconds. Rub the bars with suet — the fat will smoke and season the iron, preventing stick. Lay the floured salmon on the hot bars and don't move it. After three minutes, check by lifting an edge with a thin knife. You want a dark brown grip on the bar-marks. Flip and cook the second side for two to three minutes depending on thickness. The fish is done when the flesh flakes under gentle pressure at the thickest part, but still resists slightly — carryover heat will finish it once plated.
The alternative en papillote method produces a gentler result. Butter white paper generously and lay a 2.5 cm slice on each sheet. Season the flesh with salt, pepper, chopped herbs (parsley or dill), and a pinch of spice — mace or white pepper work well here. Wrap tightly, twisting the ends shut. Place the packets on a gridiron or across a grate over a clear fire (no flame licking the paper). Cook for eight to ten minutes until the paper swells and begins to brown at the edges. The fish steams in its own juices and the butter, a gentler method that suits smaller cuts. The paper parcels trap flavour and moisture completely.
Finish both methods by serving at once with anchovy or caper sauce — the acid cuts the richness of the fish and the fat from cooking, and the umami from the anchovy or the brine-sharp bite of capers deepens the savoury character. Serve on warm plates.
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