Fillet of Veal

Ingredients

• 10–12 lb fillet of veal from the leg
• force meat or stuffing

Method

Remove the bone from the leg above the knuckle, opening a cavity along the length of the fillet. This meat-preparation move exposes the interior without severing the outer muscle groups, which will later hold the stuffing in place during roasting.

Pack the force meat firmly into the cavity—compress it in layers rather than filling loosely, as air pockets will collapse during cooking and leave gaps. Fold the flap of meat closed over the stuffing and secure it with two or three metal skewers driven perpendicular to the seam, or bind the whole fillet with kitchen string wound tightly at 3 cm intervals. The tension keeps the exterior intact as the proteins contract; without it, the seam splits and the stuffing escapes into the roasting pan.

Place the fillet in a roasting tin with a little water or stock at the base—not so much that steam rises constantly, but enough to prevent the drippings from burning. Roast at 160°C. The meat will take 3.5 to 4.5 hours depending on the exact weight and how cold it started; internal temperature should reach 65°C for medium. Baste every 30 minutes with the pan juices. The surface develops a deep mahogany glaze only if you've dried the exterior thoroughly before roasting and if the oven temperature is correct—too cool and it steams grey; too hot and it colours outside while the centre remains raw.

When the meat yields easily to a skewer and no pink juices run, transfer it to a warm serving board and rest for at least 15 minutes. This allows the muscle fibres to relax and reabsorb the released liquid, keeping each slice moist rather than weeping.

Carve by slicing perpendicular to the bone cavity (which is now closed), cutting thin, even slices that each contain both meat and a ribbon of the stuffing. The grain of the leg runs along the length, so this perpendicular cut yields tender cross-sections. Serve the slices with crisp bacon, sausage-balls, braised greens, and a wedge of lemon to cut the richness of the force meat.