Graham Biscuits with Yeast

Source: The White House Cook Book (1887)

Ingredients

Method

Ingredients

Method

Warm the milk or water to blood heat (around 37°C) — this is the non-negotiable threshold for yeast activation. Melt the butter into it, then dissolve the sugar and salt. The sugar feeds the yeast-fermentation, and the salt controls the fermentation rate, preventing the dough from overproofing and collapsing. Whisk in the wheat flour first — roughly 250g, enough to make a thick batter rather than a dough. This initial mix needs to be loose enough to accept the yeast without working it. Stir in the 0.5 cup (roughly 120ml) of yeast — this is a wet batter ferment, not a stiff dough, which is why the original method emphasises adding as much Graham flour as the spoon can work in. Fold in the Graham flour until the dough becomes shaggy and just cohesive, then cover with a damp cloth and leave overnight at room temperature. The long bread ferment — twelve to sixteen hours — develops flavour through slow breakdown of the flour's starches and proteins, and the acid from fermentation strengthens the gluten network without aggressive mixing.

By morning the dough will have risen visibly and smell slightly sour. Turn it out onto a floured work surface; it will be sticky and loose. Oil your hands lightly rather than flouring them — you'll have better control. Pinch off pieces roughly the size of a walnut (about 30–40g each), not an egg, which is the scale inflation of the period. Roll each between your palms with minimal pressure, just enough to create surface tension. Place them on a greased baking sheet with space between each one — at least 5cm, because they will rise again. Cover loosely and let them proof for twenty to thirty minutes at room temperature until they dimple visibly when poked.

Bake in a moderately hot oven at 200°C for fifteen to eighteen minutes, until the tops are deep golden brown and the biscuits sound hollow when tapped underneath. The exterior should be crisp from the dry heat, the crumb tender from the long fermentation. Eat warm, split open with a knife, or cool completely and store in an airtight tin where they'll keep for three days.

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